Georgia - Initial Obsevations

Upon arriving in a new country, you have a finite window for true observation. 

We grow accustomed to everything with time, and this happens remarkably quickly even in the most alien of settings. What strikes you as strange or even shocking initially will soon become commonplace. This is a gift, in that it helps us to travel sanely, but is certainly a detriment to observational travel. 

With that in mind, for my own recollections as much as simple posterity, here were a few things which struck me on my first day or two in Georgia.

Watermelons

It’s certainly not uncommon to see fruit being sold by the side of the road, nor even watermelons.

But I passed several old men with deck chairs in the shade of a tree behind their campervans, the backs of which were open to display a sizable pile of watermelons in the back. With a scale on the roof of their car, to measure up ahead of a sale. That was something new. 

Recycled Seating

Four seats ripped out of a car, and set into the ground alongside the river in Kutaisi in somebody’s back garden. A nice spot to hang out. 

Anti-Russia – With An Asterisk

Based on a mere few days here, the on-the-ground relationship between Georgia and Russia seems… complicated. Certainly there’s still resentment over the 2008 war. Georgia seems firmly (and understandable, given the aforementioned) on the side of Ukraine in the current conflict (a Russian cruise ship was recently protested against in Batumi). Every day on my walk from my guesthouse into town in Kutaisi, I passed some large graffiti reading ‘Kill Russian Faggots’.

But then… the country also seems significantly dependent on regular Russians for its tourism income. I heard snatches of Russian everywhere, the signs are in Russian before English, rubles are listed high on all the currency exchange boards, waiters and waitresses address you in Russian even ahead of Georgian.

It’s far too early for me to speak about this in any truly informed manner, and this observation certainly isn’t intended to be judgemental. But it is an interesting relationship. 

Big On Crypto

Crypto may – for better or worse; I think there’s a more interesting discussion to be had than most people seem to – have been laughed out of Western countries. But it’s very much a big deal in Georgia. 

In fact, you can’t walk more than a couple of minutes in Kutaisi without passing a booth – right there on the street – in which you can buy bitcoin, ethereum, and tether. I’ve also seen several service-industry establishments in which crypto is accepted. 

Graveyards

It’s always intriguing to see how a different culture deals with their dead. Obviously this is a Christian country, so it’s not as wildly different as – say – Japanese cemeteries. But – if you yourself are from a Christian country – that gives you a better basis for comparison. 

It’s the gravestones that struck me here. Specifically, they don’t just stop at sticking the name and dates on there. Most also need a visual representation of the deceased, usually via a (actually very skilful) etching into the stone. Some friends/family have gone a step further, and had whole busts made of their loved ones. Some gravesites even have little stone benches and tables beside them, so those left behind can visit in greater comfort. 

Pedestrian Crossings

The pedestrian crossings in Kutaisi are appropriately coloured red, presumably to warn you of the inherent danger in using them. 

Drivers will not willingly stop, ever, if they see you waiting. On a busy road, your only choice is between waiting perhaps at least a minute for a large enough gap, or simply going for it. Do the latter, and they will stop, albeit often uncomfortably late.

The stray dogs – of which there are many (and they’re lovely) – have also had to evolve to get from A to B in safety. Several times already I’ve seen a dog stand alongside the crowd gathered at a crossing, wait for the humans to set off, then trot alongside them to the far side. 

“Service” 

Hop onto Google Maps now, search for a restaurant in Kutaisi, check the reviews, and I almost guarantee you’ll find foreign visitors moaning about the service. 

Rightly so! 

I certainly try not to describe people, anywhere I visit, as Rude. They’re not trying to be rude, even if they ‘are’ by our standards. It’s always just a different culture. 

Kutaisi  pushed this rule of mine to its limit. 

I’ll further detail my experiences in this regard shortly… perhaps I’ve just had bad luck so far (though I doubt it). But, in both restaurants and supermarkets, the staff are… I’m resisting the R-word… not particularly friendly or helpful! 

It’s very early days, but they’re the main things I’ve noticed so far. I’ll get into more detail on the specifics of visiting Georgia in future posts.